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Theravada
Buddhism is the professed religion of more than 90% of all Thais, and casts
strong influences on daily life. Buddhism first appeared in Thailand during
the 3rd Century B.C. at Nakhon Pathom, site of the world's tallest Buddhist
monument, after the Indian Buddhist Emperor Asoka (267-227 B.C.) despatched
missionaries to Southeast Asia to propagate the newly established faith.
Besides moulding morality, providing social cohesion and offering spiritual
succour, Buddhism provided incomparable artistic impetus. In common with
medieval European cathedrals, Thailand's innumerable multiroofed temples
inspired major artistic creation. Another reason for Buddhism's strength is
that there are few Thai Buddhist families in which at least one male member
has not studied the Buddha's teachings in a monastery. It has long been a
custom for Buddhist males over twenty, once in their lifetimes, to be
ordained for a period ranging from s days to a months. This usually occurs
daring the annual Rains Retreat, a a-month period during the Rains Season
when all monks forego travel and stay inside their monasteries. Besides
sustaining monastic communities, Thai temples have traditionally served
other purposes – – as the village hostelry, village news, employment and
information agency, a school, hospital, dispensary and community centre – –
to give them vital roles in Thai society. The Thais have always subscribed
to the ideal of religious freedom. Thus sizeable minorities of Muslims,
Christians, Hindus and Sikhs freely pursue their respective faiths.
Spoken and written Thai remain largely
incomprehensible to the casual visitor.

However, English is widely
understood, particularly in Bangkok where it is almost the major commercial
language. English and other European languages are spoken in most hotels,
shops and restaurants, in major tourist destinations, and Thai-English road
and street signs are found nation-wide.
Temples
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There are thousands of
temples, or wat, in Thailand.
Some of these vary in style and size but according to the principles of
Buddhist architecture, the structures within a temple should include a
bot, or ubosot, for religious ceremonies such as ordinations; a wihan to
house various Buddha images and for laypersons to take part in religious
services; a Sala kanparien which is a large meeting hall which is not
only used for religious services but also sometimes as a social or civic
center; a mondop for storing the Buddhist scriptures; chedi for housing
sacred relics or images; a ho rakang, or belfry, to sound the time for
ceremonies, prayers, etc. and kuti where the monks live. Some may also
have a library, a crematorium and a school.
A Wat is a Thai Buddhist temple or
monastery. In most cases it is not just one building, but a collection of
buildings, shrines, and monuments within a courtyard that is enclosed by a
wall.
The Bot (also called Ubosot) is the ordination hall of a Wat. It is the
place where new monks take their vows. You can recognize a building as a Bot
by the six boundary stones (Bai Sema) that define the limits of its
sanctuary. Bots are usually open only to the monks. The building faces east
and usually houses an altar and one or several Buddha images. The hornlike
finial on the roof ridge is called the chofa, representing the head of the
garuda.
Chofahs are the bird-like decorations on the end of the temple roofs. If you
visit the Museum of the Emerald Buddha near the Grand Palace in Bangkok you
can see examples of Chofahs displayed in glass cases in the ground floor and
have a closer look at them. Chofahs are often decorated with little bells
that tinkle in the wind.
A Chedi (a different term would be stupa or pagoda) is a domed edifice,
often quite tall, under which relics of the Buddha or revered religious
teachers are buried.
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A Prang is an Ayutthayan or Khmer-style Chedi that is high and
slim and looks like a vertical ear corn. Many of the Chedis in Wat Phra Kaew
or Wat Po in Bangkok are Prangs.
A Mondop (also called Mandapa) is a baldachin structure that has in some
temples been erected above the library with the sacred Buddhist scripts.
The Ho Trai (also transcripted as "Ho Phra") is the library of the Wat. It
is usually a very small, highly decorated building. In the Central Plains it
often sits on columns in a pond . The holy scripts and sacred manuscripts of
the Wat are kept inside.
Viharn
A Viharn is a sermon hall. It is usually the busiest building in a Wat
and open to everyone (provided the visitor behaves according to the
temple etiquette!: you must be properly dressed, take off your shoes
before entering a building and behave quietly) Just like the Bots,
Viharns hold an altar and one or several Buddha images.
Sala
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A Sala is an open-sided pavilion. Some Viharns are built in this style
Naga
A Naga is a representation of a mystical serpent that according to the
holy scripts sheltered the Buddha while he was meditating. In temple
architecture, it runs down the edge of the roof, or, especially in Lanna
(North of Thailand) temples, flanks the staircase that ascends to the
Viharn or Bot. In sculptures, it is depicted sheltering the head of the
Buddha with its own. Beautiful representations of Nagas are known from
Khmer art, as found in the Khmer ruins in the Northeast of Thailand.
Any of us have at one time or another found the toll of living in the
modern world hard to bear. Stress, depression and disillusionment are
some of the diseases of modern times that leave us yearning for a
solution, a cure, so to speak. More and more people are turning to
meditation as they fail to find the answer through worldly paths.
Meditation is found in some form or other in all major religious
traditions. Even those who are not religious use it to focus the mind,
to hone it, so that it works better. In Buddhism, meditation is the
integral to the eight-fold path to enlightenment. One trains one’s mind
so that it can see the four-point Supreme Truth that forms the core of
Buddha’s teachings: suffering, what causes it, the end of suffering, and
the path to that end. Even if you are not interested in Buddhism,
meditation is a valuable training that can be applied to daily life, for
it helps with concentration and when done correctly can lead to a state
of peace and calmness that’s beyond worldly joys.
There are two main branches in Buddhist meditation: samatha (calmness,
concentration) and vipassana (insight), which stresses mindfulness. This
doesn’t mean that the two are entirely separate, since you cannot be
mindful unless you have at least some level of concentration.
The techniques of samatha meditation are many, some older than Buddhism,
others developed after the time of the Buddha. Among the most commonly
practiced here is anapanasati, or “mindfulness with breathing.” This
technique was advocated by the Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku (1903-1993),
founder of Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery in Surat Thani. Meditators at
Suan Mokkh (Garden of Liberation), follow the 16 steps of anapanasati as
laid down in Pali texts.
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Mantra meditation, in which you repeat a few words over and over, is
also widely practiced. Followers of this technique may chant “Buddh” as
they inhale, and “dho” as they exhale. The words may vary, but the
purpose of chanting is really to get the mind focused. Yet another
widely taught technique is kasinas, where meditators concentrate on an
object outside themselves, such as the flame of a candle, or a crystal
ball.
Sati, or mindfulness, is key to vipassana meditation. You train yourself
to be aware of the body’s action, the rise and fall of your chest as you
inhale and exhale, the movement of your feet and legs as you walk, as
well as your feelings, your thought, and finally, the state of mind you
are in. Walking, sitting and lying meditation are but a few of vipassana
techniques. When the mind is untrained, concentration can be shattered
by the slightest stimuli—noise, smell, heat, hunger, pain, etc. The key
is to become aware of what happens, but not dwell on it. Still, a novice
can only ward off so much distraction, and that’s one reason why
vipassana retreats are usually held in peaceful and isolated settings.
Meditation teachings are widely available in Thailand. You can attend a
class at one of the teaching monasteries for an afternoon or evening.
Wat Mahadhatu near the Grand Palace, for example, has two meditation
training centers open to locals and tourists. Or you may join a
vipassana retreat, which usually takes a weekend or longer. A number of
retreat centers, most of them located in the provinces, run intensive
courses of up to four weeks on an ongoing basis. All vipassana retreats
require you to follow the Five Buddhist Precepts. These include
refraining from harming all living beings, from taking what is not
given, from improper sexual behavior, from lying and incorrect speech,
and from taking liquors and drugs that will cloud the mind. Some
retreats may require that you take you take the Eight Precepts, which in
addition to the first five include refraining from dinner, from all
forms of entertainment and bodily decoration, and from sleeping on high
mattresses.
Respect for one’s teacher is inherent in Thai culture. At the start of a
vipassana session, you must attend an opening ceremony, where you pay
respect to the meditation masters and present them with traditional
Buddhist offerings of incense sticks, candles and flowers—usually three
lotuses or a hand garland. There is also a closing ceremony, where you
thank your teachers and bid them a formal farewell. Even if you cannot
stay for the duration of the course, be sure to perform this ritual
before you leave, since not doing so is considered very rude.
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Enjoy you holiday
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european management.

Once you get enrolled in a course, be sure to follow only the technique
taught there. Mixing techniques will only confuse you. Usually, you are
given instructions daily, and required to report your progress—or lack
of it—to your meditation master on the following day. After the
interview you will be given advice and new instructions, or old ones to
repeat.
All-white, modest clothing is required at vipassana retreats. Check
ahead if there is a shop on the compound, or if you have to bring your
own. At most monasteries, simple accommodation and food are provided,
usually free of charge. Talking, reading and writing are discouraged, as
they will distract you from your meditation. And meditators are not
allowed to leave the retreat compound unless absolutely necessary, so be
sure to bring enough change of clothes, toiletries and personal items
for the duration of the course.
For first-time meditators, it might help to attend a day session or two
before you join a long retreat. Bangkok has a number of meditation
centers offering day classes in English. Many temples around the country
also teach samatha and vipassana meditation. Contact the nearest office
of the Tourism Authority of Thailand for a list of local temples where
English-speaking classes can be arranged.
□ International Buddhist Meditation Center (IBMC)
Dhamma Vicaya Hall, Wat Mahadhatu, Tha Prachan, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 623-6326, 623-6328 (Afternoons only, 1-7.30 p.m.)
IBMC is the vipassana teaching center of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist
University, one of the highest seats of Buddhist learning in the
country. Mindfulness meditation classes in English are held daily, from
1-6 p.m. except on Buddhist holidays and Sundays. Bring flowers, nine
sticks of incense and a candle for the opening ceremony. The Center also
organizes vipassana retreats at Buddha Monthon in Nakhon Pathom, usually
on major Buddhist holidays and long weekends. Dhamma talks to groups can
be arranged by request.
□ Section Five, Wat Mahadhatu
Tha Prachan, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 222-6011
Thais and foreigners have long come to Section Five of Wat Mahadhatu to
learn mindfulness meditation. Classes are held from 7-10 p.m., 1-4 p.m.
and 6-8 p.m. These are mixed; at any given session there will be
beginners and advanced meditators, monks and laymen, locals and
tourists. English-speaking instruction is available on Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays. You can come for a retreat of three days or
longer. Meals and accommodation are provided on the compounds free of
charge. Bring enough sets of clothes, toiletries and personal items, and
an offering of flowers, a candle and nine sticks of incense for the
opening ceremony. Donations are accepted but not solicited.
□ Wat Bhaddanta Asahba Theravada & Sommitre Pranee Vipassana Center
118/1 Moo 1, Baan Nong Pru, Nong Pai Kaiw, Baan Bung, Chonburi 20220
Tel: (66-38) 292-361, 01 455-2360, 01-343-7295, email: wat_asabha@yahoo.com
Capacity: 30 persons (Recommend booking in advance)
Meditation Master : Ajahn Bhaddanta Asabha, Ajahn Somsak Sorado
The retreat is widely open for both beginner and experienced meditators.
On the retreat, all meditators are expected to keep silence at all times
except when giving meditation reports. All meditators must keep the
eight training precepts. Meditators need only bring conservative
clothing (preferably white colored clothing), personal hygiene
accessories and essential medication.
Ajahn Asabha was Head Meditation Master at Vivek Asom Meditation Center
(Chonburi, Thailand), where he taught vipassana meditation for 37 years.
In 1999, Ajahn Asabha became President of Wat Bhaddanta Asabha Theravada
and Head Meditation Master at Sommit Pranee Vipassana Meditation Center,
where he now resides.
Ajahn Somsak Sorado, a disciple of Ajahn Asabha, has been teaching
vipassana meditation at Vivek Asom Meditation Center for over 5 years.
He was in the United States on Buddhist missionary duties for 2 years
and is now permanently stationed at Wat Bhaddanta Asabha Theravada.
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Enjoy you holiday
in Krabi in the exotic Thailand, in a magic tropical garden with
european management.

□ Northern Insight Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng (Tapotharam)
Tumbon Suthep, Amphoe Muang, Chiang Mai
Tel/Fax: (66-53) 278-620
The Northern Insight Meditation Center has been teaching mindfulness
meditation to thousands of tourists and locals for more than 20 years.
It has English-speaking monks, nuns and volunteer facilitators on staff.
The center offers a 26-day basic course on an ongoing basis. After you
have completed this course you can join the 10-day Insight Meditation
Retreat. Tourists are required to present two passport photos, two
copies each of a valid passport and visa with entry stamp. Modest white
clothing is required; this can be bought at the Temple’s store.
Dormitory-style accommodation and meals are provided free of charge.
Donations are accepted but not solicited.
□ Wat Phra Dhatu Sri Chomthong
Tumbon Baan Luang, Amphoe Chomthong, Chiang Mai
Tel: (66-53) 826-869
This temple is headed by the monk who founded the Northern Insight
Meditation Center at Wat Rampoeng. Meditation retreats are held on an
ongoing basis. Meditators must present identification card or valid
passport, and inform the temple of their intended length of stay. Then
they can choose whether to follow the Five or Eight Precepts. The temple
provides meals and simple, dormitory-style lodgings, most with their own
bathroom. Proper clothing is available at a shop next door to the
monastery. Bookings are advised, since the retreats draw large crowds
during major Buddhist holidays and Chinese vegetarian festival.
□ Suan Mokkh Forest Monastery
Amphoe Chaiya, Surat Thani
Tel: (66-77) 431-596-7 Fax:(66-77) 431-597
e-mail: santikaro@suanmokkh.org website: www.suanmokkh.org
Founded in 1932 by the late Venerable Buddhadasa Bhikku, meditation
master and Buddhist scholar, Suan Mokkh holds a 10-day meditation course
on an ongoing basis. During the course participants will explore two
inter-related subjects: dhamma and meditation. Meditation instruction
focuses on mindfulness with breathing (anapanasati), a system of
training used and taught most often by the Buddha. Dhamma talks are held
daily, and everyone is encouraged to participate. English-speaking
facilitators called “Friends” offer guidance on meditation practice and
all other aspects of the course.
□ Young Buddhists Association of Thailand (YBAT)
58/8 Soi Petchkasem 54, Petchkasem Road, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 413-3131, 413-1706
□ Sthiradhamma Sthana
24/5 Soi Watcharapol, Ramindra Soi 55, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 510-6697, 510-4765 Fax: (662) 519-4633
Sorn-Thawee Meditation Center, Chachoengsao
Tel: (66-38) 541-405
Wat Kow Tham International Meditation Center
Ko Phangan, Surat Thani 84280
House of Dhamma (Vipassana) Insight Meditation Center
26/9 Chompol Lane, Lat Phrao Soi 15 Chatuchak, Bangkok
Tel: (662) 511-0439 (weekends or evenings only) Fax: (662) 512-6083
Vivek Ashram Vipassana Meditation Center, Chonburi
Tel: (66-38) 283-766
Wat Pah Nanachart (International Forest Monastery)
Ban Bung Wai, Amphoe Warin, Ubon Ratchathani 34310
MONARCHY
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His Majesty Bhumibol Adulyadej (which is pronounced 'Phumiphon
Adunyadet') is the ninth king of the Chakri dynasty (founded in 1782)
and as of 1988 the longest reigning king in Thai history. Born in the
USA in 1927, where his father Prince Mahidol was studying medicine at
Harvard University, and schooled in bangkok and Switzerland, King
Bhumibol was a nephew of Rama VII as well as the younger brother of Rama
VIII. His full name, including royal title, is Phrabaatsomdet
Boramintaramahaphumiphonadunyadet.
His Majesty ascended the throne in 1946 following the death of
Rama VIII, who had reigned as king for only one year. In 1996, Thailand
celebrated the king's 50th year of reign. His Majesty is the world's
longest reigning, living monarch. A Jazz composer and saxophonist, King
Bhumibol wrote the royal anthem (the music that accompanies photos of
the royal family shown before every film at cinemas throughout the
country). He is fluent in English, French, German and Thai.
The King and Queen Sirikit have four children: princess Ubol
Ratana (born 1951), Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn (1952), Princess
Chulabhorn (1957). A royal decree issued by King Trailok (1448-88) to
standardize succession in a polygamous dynasty makes the king's senior
son or full brotherhood 'uparaja' or heir apparent. Thus Prince Maha
Vajiralongkorn was officially designated as crown prince and heir when
he reached 20 years of age in 1972; if he were to decline the crown or
be unable to ascend the throne due to incurable illness or death, the
senior princess (Ubol Ratana) would be next in line.
Thailand's political system is officially classified as a
constitutional monarchy, but the Thai constitution stipulates that the
king be 'enthroned in a position of revered workship' and not be exposed
'to any sort of accusation or action'.
With or without legal writ, the vast majority of Thai citizens
regards King Bhumibol as a sort of demigod, partly in deference to
tradition but also because of his involvement in impressive public
works. Along with nation and religion, the monarchy is very highly
regarded in Thai society. Negative comment about the king or any member
of the royal family is a social as well as legal taboo.
The monarchy is held in considerable respect in Thailand and
visitors should be respectful too - avoid disparaging remarks about the
king, queen or anyone in the royal family. One of Thailand's more
outspoken intellectuals, Sulak Sivaraksa, was arrested in the early
1980s for lese-majesty because of a passing reference to the king's
fondness for yachting (Sulak referred to His Majesty as 'the skipper')
and again in 1991 when he referred to the royal family as 'ordinary
people'. Although on that occasion he received a royal pardon, later in
1991 Sulak had to flee the country to avoid prosecution again, for
alleged remarks delivered at Thammasat University about the ruling
military junta, with reference to the king (Sulak has since returned
under a suspended sentence). The penalty for lese-majesty is seven years
imprisonment.
While it's OK to criticize the Thai government and even Thai
culture openly, it's considered a grave insult to Thai nationhood as
well as to the monarchy not to stand when you hear the national or royal
anthems. Radio and TV stations in Thailand broadcast the national anthem
daily at 8 am and 6 pm; in towns and villages (even in some Bangkok
neighbourhoods) this can be heard over public loudspeakers in the
streets. The Thais stop whatever they're doing to stand during the
anthem (except in Bangkok, where nobody can hear anydying above the
street noise) and visitors are expected to do likewise. The royal anthem
is played just before films are shown in public cinemas; again, the
audience always stands until it's over.
SOCIETY
Traditional Culture
When outsiders speak of 'Thai culture' they're referring to a
complex of behavioral modes rooted in the history of Thai migration
throughout South-East Asia, with many commonalties shared by the Lao
people of neighbouring Laos, the Shan of north-eastern Myanmar and the
numerous tribal Thais found in isolated pockets from Dien Bien Phu,
Vietnam, all the way to Assam, India. Nowhere are such norms more
generalized than in Thailand, the largest of the Thai homelands.
Practically every ethnicity in Thailand, whether of Thai
ancestry or not, has to a greater or lesser degree been assimilated into
the Thai mainstream. Although Thailand is the most 'modernized' of the
existing Thai (more precisely, Austro-Thai) societies, the cultural
underpinnings are evident in virtually every facet of everyday life.
Those aspects that might be deemed 'westernisation' - eg the wearing of
trousers instead of a 'phaakhamaa' (wrap-around), the presence of
automobiles, cinemas and 7-Eleven stores - show how Thailand has adopted
and adapted tools originating from elsewhere.
Such adaptations do not necessarily represent a cultural loss.
Ekawit Na Talang, a scholar of Thai culture and head of the Thai
government's National Cultural Commission, defines culture as 'the
system of thought and behaviour of a particular society - something
which is dynamic and never static'. Talang and other world culture
experts agree that it's paradoxical to try to protect a culture from
foreign influences, realizing that cultures cannot exist in a vacuum.
Culture evolves naturally as outside influences undergo
processes of naturalization. From this perspective, trying to maintain a
'pure' culture is like breeding pedigreed dogs : it eventually leads to
a weakening of the species. As Talang has theorized, 'Anything obsolete,
people will reject and anything that has a relevant role in life, people
will adopt and make it part of their culture'.
The Thais themselves don't really have a word that corresponds
to the term 'culture'. The nearest equivalent, 'watanatham', emphasizes
fine arts and ceremonies over other aspects usually covered by the
concept. So if you ask Thais to define their culture, they'll often talk
about architecture, food, dance, festivals and the like. Religion -
obviously a big influence on culture as defined in the western sense -
is considered more or less separate from 'watanatham'.
Nevertheless there are certain aspects of Thais society that
virtually everyone recognizes as 'Thai' cultural markers.
Sanuk
The Thais word 'sanuk' means 'fun'. In Thailand anything worth
doing - even work - should have an element of 'sanuk', otherwise it
automatically becomes drudgery. This doesn't mean Thais don't want to
work or strive, just that they tend to approach tasks with a sense of
playfulness. Nothing condemns as activity more than the description 'mai
sanuk', 'not fun'. Sit down beside a rice field and watch workers
planting, transplanting or harvesting rice some time while you're in
Thailand.
That it's back-breaking labour is obvious, but participants
generally inject the activity with lots of 'sanuk' - flirtation between
the sexes, singing, trading insults and cracking jokes. The same goes in
an office or a bank, or other white-collar work situation - at least
when the office in question is predominantly Thai (businesses run by
non-Thais don't necessarily exhibit 'sanuk'). The famous Thai smile
comes partially out of this desire to make 'sanuk'.
Face
Thais beleive strongly in the concept of 'saving face', that is
avoiding confrontation and endeavouring not to embarrass themselves or
other people (except when it's 'sanuk' to do so). The ideal face-saver
doesn't bring up negative topics in conversation, and when they notice
stress in another's life, they usually won't say anything unless that
person complains or asks for help. Laughing at minor accidents - like
when someone trips and falls down - may seem callous to outsiders but
it's really just an attempt to save face on behalf of the person
undergoing the mishap. This is another source of the Thai smile - it's
the best possible face for almost any situation.
MONKS
Socially, every Thai male is excepted to become a monk for a
short period in his life, optimally between the time he finishes school
and the time he starts a career or marries. Men or boys under 20 years
of age may enter the Sangha as novices - this is not unusual since a
family earns great merit when one if its sons 'takes robe and bowl'.
Traditionally, the length of time spent in the 'wat' is three
months, during the Buddhist lent (phansa), which begins in July and
coincides with the rainy season. However, nowadays men may spend as
little as a week or 15 days to accrue merits monks.
There are about 32,000 monasteries in Thailand and 460,000 monks
; many of these monks are ordained for a lifetime. Of these a large
percentage become scholars and teachers, while some specialize in
healing and/or folk magic.
The Sangha is divided into two sects : the Mahanikai (Great
Society) and the Thammayut (from the Pali dhammayutika or
'dharma-adhering). The latter is a minority sect (the ratio being one
Thammayut to 35 Mahanikai) begun by King Mongkut and patterned after an
early Mon form of monastic discipline which he had practiced as a monk
('bhikkhu'). Members of both sects must adhere to 227 monastic vows or
precepts as laid out in the Vinya Pitaka - Buddhist scriptures dealing
with monastic discipline. Overall discipline for Thammayut monks,
however, is generally stricter.
For example, they eat only once a day - before noon - and must
eat only what is in their alms bowl, whereas Mahanikais eat twice before
noon and may accept side dishes. Thammayut monks are expected to attain
proficiency in meditation as well as Buddhist scholarship or scripture
study ; the Manahanikai monks typically 'specialize' in one or the
other. Other factors may supersede sectarian divisions when it comes to
disciplinary disparities. Monks who live in the city, for example,
usually emphasize study of the Buddhist scriptures while those living in
the forest tend to emphasize meditation.
• International Dhama Hermitage :
Wat Suan Mok,Chaiya, Surat Thani
Tel. (077) 431552
• Northern Insight Meditation Centre :
Wat Ram Poeng, Canal Rd, Chaing Mai
Tel. (053) 278620
• Old Medicine Hospital :
78/1 Soi Moh Shivagah Komarapaj, Wualai Road,Chiang Mai
Tel. (053) 275085
• Wat Pa Nanachat :
Beung Rai Baan Bung Wai Amphoe Warinchamrab, Ubon Ratchathani
• Wat Phra Dhammakaya :
23/2 Mu 7 Khong Sam, Khlong Luang, Pathum Thani
Tel.(02) 524 0257
• World Fellowship of Buddhists :
33 Sukhumvit Rd, Bangkok
Tel.(02) 251 1188
POPULATION & PEOPLE
The population of Thailand is about 61.4 million and currently
growing at a rate of 1 % to 1.5% per annum (as opposed to 2.5% in 1979),
thanks to a vigorous nationwide family-planning campaign.
Over a third of all Thais live in urban areas. Bangkok is by far
the largest city in the kingdom, with a population of over six million
(more than 10% of the total population) - too many for the scope of its
public services and what little 'city planning' exists. Ranking the
nation's other cities by population depends on whether you look at
thetsabaan (municipal district) limits or at meuang (metropolitan
district) Emits.
By the former measure, the four most populated cities in
descending order (not counting the densely populated 'suburb' provinces
of Samut Prakan and Nonthaburi, which rank second and third if
considered separately from Bangkok) are Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat),
Chiang Mai, Hat Yai and Khon Kaen. Using the rather misleading meuang
measure, the ranking runs Udon Thani, Lopburi, Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat)
and Khon Kaen. Most of the other towns in Thailand have populations
below 100,000.
The average life expectancy in Thailand is 69 years, the highest
in mainland South-East Asia. Yet only an estimated 59% of all Thais have
access to local health services; in this the nation ranks 75th
worldwide, behind even countries with lower national incomes such as
Sudan and Guateinala. There is only one doctor per 4316 people, and
infant mortality figures are 26 per 1000 births (figures for
neighbouring countries vary from 110 per 1000 in Cambodia to 12 in
Malaysia). Thailand has a relatively youthful population; only about 12%
are older than 50 years and 6% over 65.
The Thai Majority
About 75% of citizens are ethnic Thais, who can be divided into
the Central Thais, or Siamese, of the Chao Phraya Delta (the most
densely populated region of the country); the Thai Lao of North-Eastern
Thailand; the Thai Pak Tai of Southern Thailand; and the Northern Thais.
Each group speaks their own Thai dialect and to a certain extent
practises customs unique to their region. Politically and econon-iimly
the Central Thais are the dominant group, although they barely outnumber
the Thai Lao of the North-East.
The Chinese
People of Chinese ancestry make up 11 % of the population, most
of whom are second or third generation Hakka, Chao Zhou, Hain- anese or
Cantonese. In the North there are also a substantial number of Hui -
Chinese Muslims who emigrated from Yunnan to Thailand in the late 19th
century to avoid religious and ethnic persecution during the Qing
dynasty.
Minorities
The second largest ethnic minority group living in Thailand are
the Malays (3.5%), most of whom reside in the provinces of Songkhla,
Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat. The remaining 10.5% of the population is
divided among smaller non Thai-speaking groups like the Vietnamese,
Khmer, Mon, Semang (Sakai), Moken (chao leh or sea gypsies), Htin, Mabri,
Khamu and a variety of hill tribes.
RELIGION
Approximately 95% of the Thai citizens are Theravada Buddhists.
The Thais themselves frequently call their religion Lankavamsa
(Sinhalese lineage) Buddhism because Thailand originally received
Buddhism from Sri Lanka during the Sukhothai period. Strictly speaking,
Theravada refers only to the earliest forms of Buddhism practised during
the Ashokan and immediate port-Ashokan periods in South Asia. The early
Dvaravati and pre-Dvaravati forms of Buddhism - those which existed up
until the 10th or 11th century - are not the same as that which
developed in Thai territories after the 13th century.
Since the Sukhothai period (13th to 15th centuries), Thailand
has maintained an unbroken canonical tradition and 'pure' ordination
lineage, the only country among the Theravadin countries to have done
so. Ironically, when the ordianation lineage in Sri Lanka broke down
during the 18th century under Dutch persecution, it was Thailand that
restored the Sangha (Buddhist brotherhood) there. To this day the major
sect in Sri Lanka is called Siamopalivamsa (Siam-Upali lineage, Upali
being the name of the Siamese monk who led the expedition to Ceylon), or
simply Siam Nikaya (the Siamese sect).
Basically, the Theravada school of Buddhism is an earlier and,
according to its followers, less corrupted form of Buddhism than the
Mahayana schools found in East Asia or in the Himalayan lands. The
Theravada (literally, 'teaching of the elders') school is also called
the 'southern' school since it took a southern route from India, its
place of origin, through South-East Asia (Mynmar, Thailand, Laos and
Cambodia in this case), while the 'northern' school proceeded north into
Nepal, Tibet, China, Korea, Mongolia, Vietnam and Japan.
Because the Theravada school tried to preserve or limit the
Buddhist doctrines to only those canons codified in the early Buddhist
era, the Mahayana school gave Theravada Buddhism the name Hinayana, or
the 'lesser vehicle'. The Mahayana school was the 'great vehicle',
because it built upon the earlier teachings, 'expanding' the doctrine in
such a way as to respond more to the needs of lay people, or so it is
claimed.
Buddha's words
The Buddha taught his disciples :
When you see, just see.
When you hear, just hear.
When you smell, just smell.
When you touch, just touch.
When you know, just know.
Many Thais express the feeling that they are somehow unworthly
of nibbana. By feeding monks, giving donations to temples and performing
regular worship at the local 'wat' (temple) they hope to improve their
lot, acquiring enough merit (Pali term 'punna' ; Thai term 'bun') to
prevent or at least lessen the number of rebirths. The making of merit
('tham bun') is an important social and religious activity in Thailand.
The concept of reincarnation is almost universally accepted in Thailand,
even by non-Buddhists, and the Buddhist theory of karma is well
expressed in the Thai proverb 'tham dii, dai dii : tham chua, dai chua'
(do good and receive good ; do evil and receive evil).
The Triratna, or Triple Gems, highly respected by Thai
Buddhists, include the Buddha, the Dhamma (the teachings) and the Sangha
(the Buddhist brotherhood). All are quite visible in Thailand. The
Buddha, in his myriad and omnipresent sculptural forms, is found on a
high shelf in the lowliest roadside restaurants as well as in the
lounges of expensive Bangkok hotels.
The Dhamma is chanted morning and evening in every 'wat' and
taught to every Thai citizen in primary school. The Sangha is seen
everywhere in the presence of orange-robed monks, especially in the
early morning hours when they perform their alms-rounds, in what has
almost become a travel-guide cliche in motion.
Thai Buddhism has no particular 'Sabbath' or day of the week
when Thais are supposed to make temple visits. Nor is there anythings
corresponding to a liturgy or mass over which a priest presides. Instead
Thai Buddhists visit the 'wat' whenever they feel like it, most often on
'wan phra' (literally, 'excellent days'), which occur with every full
and new moon, ie every 15 days.
Buddhist Meditation
Suan Mok, a 120-acre forest temple in Chaiya district, Surat
Thani province, some 580 kilometres south of Bangkok, attracts and
accepts meditators from all over the world. Meditation opportunities are
also found in Bangkok, particularly at Wat Mahathat (facing Sanam Luang),
\A/at Pak Nam, Wat Chonprathan Rangsit, Wat Phrathammakai and
Banglamphu's Wat Bowon Nivet where English-language instruction is
available.
DO'S & DON'T IN THAILAND
Getting Along In Thailand
Thailand is known for its tolerance and hospitality, and the
average tourist will have no difficulty in adjusting to the local
customs All the same, as when coming into any unfamiliar society, a
visitor may find it helpful to be aware of certain do's and don't's, and
thus avoid making accidental misunderstanding. Basically, most of these
are simply a matter of common sense and good manners not really all that
different from the way one would behave in one's own country but a few
are special enough to be pointed out.
Dress & Nudity
Shorts (except knee- length walking shorts), sleeveless
shirts, tank tops (singles) and other beach-style attire are not
considered appropriate dress for anything other than sport g events.
Such dress is especially counterproductive if worn to government offices
(eg when applying for a visa extension). The attitude of 'This is how 1
dress at home and no-one is going to stop me' gains nothing but contempt
or disrespect from the Thais.
Sandals or slip-on shoes are OK for almost any but the most
formal occasions. Short-sleeved shirts and blouses with capped sleeves
likewise are quite acceptable.
Thais would never dream of going abroad and wearing dirty
clothes, so they are often shocked to see westerners travelling around
Thailand in clothes that apparently haven't been washed in weeks. If you
keep up with your laundry you'll receive much better treatment
everywhere you go.
Regardless of what the Thais may or may not have been
accustomed to centuries ago, they are quite offended by public nudity
today. Bathing nude at beaches in Thailand is illegal. If you are at a
truly deserted beach and are sure no Thais may come along, there's
nothing stopping you - however, at most beaches travellers should wear
suitable attire. Likewise, topless bathing for females is frowned upon
in most places except on heavily-touristed islands like Phuket, Samui
and Samet. According to Thailand's National Parks Act, any woman who
goes topless on a national park beach (eg KO Chang, KO Phi Phi, Ko Samet)
is breaking the law.
Many Thais say that nudity and topless sun- bathing on the
beaches is what bothers them most about foreign travellers. These Thais
take nudity as a sign of disrespect for the locals, rather than as a
libertarian symbol or modem custom. Thais are extremely modest in this
respect (Patpong-style go-go bars are cultural aberrations, hidden from
public view and designed for foreign consumption) and it should not be
the visitor's intention to 'reform' them.
Special Advice
1. Beware of unauthorized people who offer their services as guides.
Contact the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)'s counters for all
tourist information. The TAT's counters are located in the Arrival Hall
of the Bangkok International Airport; at Terminal 1 Tel: 523-8972-3, or
at Terminal 2 Tel: 535-2669 from 08.00 to 24.00 hrs.; at the main office
on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Tel: 281 -0422 during working hours of 08.30
to 16.30 hrs.
2. Visitors are advised to use the hotel taxi service at their hotel if
they do not know their way around or cannot speak the local language.
3. Observe all normal precautions as regards to personal safety, as well
as the safety of your belongings. Walking alone on quiet streets or
deserted areas is not recommended. Be sure that all your valuables
-money, jewellery, and airline tickets- are properly protected from
loss.
4. Use the service of only registered travel agents.
5. Visitors needing assistance relating to safety, unethical practices,
or other matters, please call the Tourist Assistance Centre immediately
(Tel: 281 -5051, 282-8129) or contact the Tourist Police (Tel: 678-6800-
9 or 1699)
6. Penalties for drug offences are very severe in Thailand, do not get
yourself involved with drugs.
7. Please drop your garbage into a waste container. The Bangkok
Metropolitan Administration is now strictly enforcing the law in an
effort to keep the city clean and healthy. The fine (maximum 2,000 baht)
will be imposed on a person who spits, discards cigarette stubs, or
drops rubbish in public areas.
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Precautions
Although Thailand is in no way a dangerous country to visit,
it's wise to be a little cautious, particularly if you're travelling
alone. Solo women travellers should take special care on arrival at
Bangkok international airport, particularly at night. Don't take one of
Bangkok's often very unofficial taxis (black-and-white licence tags) by
yourself - better a licensed taxi (yellow-and-black tags) or even the
public bus. Both men and women should ensure their rooms are securely
locked and bolted at night. Inspect cheap rooms with thin walls for
strategic peepholes.
Take caution when leaving valuables in hotel safes. Many
travellers have reported unpleasant experiences with leaving valuables
in Chiang Mai guesthouses while trekking. Make sure you obtain an
iteniised receipt for property left with hotels or guesthouses - note
the exact quantity of travellers cheques and all other valuables.
Security Concerns
Tourists should exercise caution in remote areas along the border with
Burma. The Thai/Burma border is the site of on-going conflicts between
the Burmese Army and armed opposition groups as well as clashes between
Thai security forces and armed drug traffickers. The far south of
Thailand has also experienced incidents of criminally and politically
motivated violence, including incidents attributed to armed local Muslim
separatist groups. In addition, six illegal aliens from Iran, Iraq, and
Afghanistan were arrested in the southern city of Hat Yai on October 5,
2001, with a box cutter and suspicious electrical devices. Although
Americans have not been specifically targeted in either area, travelers
should remain vigilant with regard to their personal security. Tourists
should obtain information from Thai authorities about whether official
border crossing points are open, and should cross into neighboring
countries only at designated crossing points. Thai/Burma border
crossings sometimes close temporarily as a result of armed clashes in
Burma between the Burmese army and Burmese ethnic groups.
Licensed guides can help ensure that trekkers do not cross inadvertently
into a neighboring country.Pirates, bandits, and drug traffickers
operate in the border areas. In February 2000, two Australians camping
near the Burma border in Ang Kang Park, in the Fang District, were
attacked by robbers. One of the campers was shot and killed. In April
1999, a dozen Thai villagers and tribesmen were killed in separate
incidents near Thailand's northern border with Burma. In January 2000,
10 gunmen from two fringe groups in Burma crossed into Thailand and took
several hundred people hostage at a provincial hospital in Ratchaburi
Province. All ten gunmen were killed when Thai authorities stormed the
hospital to end the crisis.
Travelers should be aware that there are occasional incidents of
violence on Thailand's northern and eastern borders with Laos. In July
2000, five people were killed and several fled to Thailand during a
skirmish between apparent insurgents and government forces in Laos near
the eastern border crossing at Chong Mek. Additionally, two U.S.
citizens in 1999 and one in early 2000 were reported missing after
attempting to cross illegally into Laos at the Lao-Thai border.Although
tourists have not been targeted specifically by this occasional
violence, due caution remains advisable. It is recommended that persons
wishing to travel to border areas check with the Thai tourist police and
the U.S. Consulate General in Chiang Mai or the U.S. Embassy in Bangkok.
Strong seasonal undercurrents at popular beach resorts sometimes pose a
fatal threat to surfers and swimmers.
During the monsoon season, which is from May through October, drowning
is the leading cause of death for tourists visiting Phuket. Some, but
not all, beaches have warning flags to indicate the degree of risk (red
flag: sea condition dangerous for swimming; yellow flag: sea condition
rough, swim with caution; green flag: sea condition stable). In July
2001, an American tourist died in a surfing accident in Phuket at a
beach that was not marked. CRIME INFORMATION: In recent years, crimes of
opportunity such as pick-pocketing, purse-snatching, and burglaries have
become more common, though the crime threat in Bangkok remains less than
in many American cities. Violent crimes against foreigners are
relatively rare. Travelers should be especially wary when walking in
crowded markets, tourist sites and bus or train stations. Women are
generally not subject to sexual harassment.
Reports of serious transportation-related crimes involving taxis or
three-wheeled vehicles called "tuk tuks" are relatively rare, though
fare scams can occur. More serious are incidents in which drivers tout
disreputable gem stores or entertainment venues because they receive
money for bringing in customers. Travelers should always use official
metered taxis in Bangkok and never enter a cab that has anyone besides a
driver in it. In March 2000, a U.S. citizen was attacked and robbed by a
taxi driver and an accomplice picked up en route by the driver. There
are occasional reports of scopolamine druggings perpetrated by
prostitutes or unscrupulous bar workers for the purpose of robbery.
Tourists have also been victimized by drugged food and drink, usually
offered by a friendly stranger (sometimes posing as a fellow traveler).
In addition, casual acquaintances met in a bar or on the street may pose
a threat. Travelers are advised to avoid leaving drinks or food
unattended, and they should avoid going to unfamiliar venues alone. Some
trekking tour companies, particularly in Northern Thailand, have been
known to make drugs available to trekkers. In July 2001, an American
died after smoking opium in a northern hill tribe village. Travelers
should not accept drugs of any kind because the drugs may be altered or
harmful, and the use or sale of drugs is illegal.Scams involving gems,
city tours, entertainment venues and credit cards are also common,
especially in areas heavily frequented by tourists. Credit cards should
be used only in reputable, established businesses, and the amount
charged should be checked for accuracy.
Travelers should not accept tours or offers from touts who solicit on
the streets. Shopping at lesser-known gem stores carries a serious risk;
the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) receives over 1,000 complaints
each year from visitors who have been cheated on gem purchases. The gems
often turn out to be greatly overpriced, and money-back guarantees are
not honored. Lists of gem dealers who have promised to abide by TAT
guidelines are available online at http://www.tat.or.th/do/gems.htm, and
information on gem scams can be found on the Thai Tourist Police web
site at http://www.police.go.th/touristpolice/. A traveler who has
fallen victim to a gem scam should contact the local branch of the
Tourist Police, or call their country-wide toll-free number: 1155.
Finally, bars or entertainment venues in tourist areas may at times try
to charge exorbitant amounts for drinks or unadvertised cover charges.
If victimized in this fashion, travelers should not attempt to resolve
the problem themselves, but should instead pay the price demanded and
then contact the nearest branch of the Tourist Police for help in
getting restitution. (The toll-free number for the Tourist Police is
indicated above.)
LEGAL MATTERS
In general Thai police don't hassle foreigners, especially
tourists. If anything they generally go out of their way not to arrest a
foreigner breaking minor traffic laws, rather taking the approach that a
friendly warning will suffice.
One major exception is drug laws, which most Thai police view
as either a social scourge with regard to which it's their duty to
enforce the letter of the law, or an opportunity to make untaxed income
via bribes. Which direction they'll go often depends on dope quantities;
small-time offenders are sometimes offered the chance to pay their way
out of an arrest, while traffickers usually go to jail.
A strong anti-littering law was passed in Bangkok in 1997 and
there were rumours that foreigners were being singled out for
enforcement. 1 have received no first-hand accounts of such cases, so
can only note that these remain unconfirmed reports. However it won't
hurt to be extra vigilant about where you dispose of cigarette butts and
other refuse when in Bangkok.
If you are arrested for any offence, the police will allow you
the opportunity to make a phone call to your embassy or consulate in
Thailand if you have one, or to a friend or relative if not. There's a
whole set of legal codes governing the length of time and manner in
which you can be detained before being charged or put on trial, but a
lot of discretion is left up to the police. With foreigners the police
are more likely to bend these codes in your favour. However, as with
police worldwide, if you don't show respect you will make matters worse.
Thai law does not presume an indicted detainee to be either
'guilty' or 'innocent' but rather a 'suspect' whose guilt or innocence
will be decided in court. Trials are usually speedy.
Thailand has its share of attorneys, and if you think you're a
high arrest risk for whatever reason, it might be a good idea to get out
the Bangkok yellow pages, copy down a few phone numbers and carry them
with you.
Tourist Police Hotline
The best way to deal with most serious hassles regarding
ripoffs or thefts is to contact the Tourist Police, who are used to
dealing with foreigners, rather than the regular Thai police. The
Tourist Police maintain a hotline - dial 1155 from any phone in
Thailand, and ask for extension 1.
The Tourist Police can also be very helpful in cases of
arrest. Although they typically have no jurisdiction over the kinds of
cases handled by regular cops, they may be able to help with translation
or with contacting your embassy.
SYSTEM COMPATIBILITY
Video Systems
The predominant video format in Thailand is PAL a system
compatible with that used in most of Europe (France's SECAM format is a
notable exception) as well as in Australia. This means if you're
bringing video tapes from the USA or Japan, which use the NTSC format,
you'll have to bring your own VCR to play them! Some video shops
(especially those that carry pirated or unlicensed tapes) sell NTSC
as,well as PAL and SECAM tapes. A 'multisystem' VCR has the capacity to
play both NTSC and PAL, but not SFCAM (except as black & white images).
Electricity
Electric current is 22OV, 50 cycles. Electrical wall outlets
are usually of the round, two pole type; some outlets also accept flat,
two bladed terminals, and some will accept either flat or round
terminals. Any electrical supply shop will carry adapters for any
international plug shape as well as voltage converters.
Film & Equipment
Print film is fairly inexpensive and widely available
throughout Thailand. Japanese print film costs around 1OOB per 36
exposures, US print film a bit more. Fujichrome Velvia and Provia slide
films cost around 225B per roll, Kodak Ektachrome Elite is 200B and
Ektachrome 200 about 280B. Slide film, especially Kodachrome, can be
hard to find outside Bangkok and Chlang Mai, so be sure to stock up
before heading upcountry. VHS video cassettes of all sizes are readily
available in the major cities.
Photographing People
Hill tribe people in some of the regularly visited areas
expect money if you photograph them, while certain Karen and Akha will
not allow you to point a camera at them. Use discretion when
photographing villagers anywhere in Thailand as a camera can be a very
intimidating instrument. You may feel better leaving your camera behind
when visiting certain areas.
WHAT TO BRING
Bring as little as possible - one medium-sized shoulder bag,
duffel bag or backpack should do. Pack lightweight clothes, unless
you're going to be in the North in the cool season, in which case you
should have a pullover. Natural fibres can be cool and comfortable,
except when they get soaked with sweat or rain, in which case they
quickly become heavy and block air flow. Some of the lightweight
synthetics breathe better than natural fibres, draw sweat away rather
than holding it in, and may be more suitable for the beach or mid-rainy
season.
Sunglasses are a must for most people and can be bought
cheaply in Bangkok and most provincial capitals. Slip-on shoes or
sandles are highly recommended - besides being cooler than lace-up
shoes, they are easily removed before entering a Thai home or temple. A
small torch (flashlight) is a good idea, as it makes it easier to find
your way back to your bungalow at night if you are staying at the beach
or at a remote guest-house. A few other handy things include a compass,
a plastic lighter for lighting candles and mosquito coils (lighters,
candles and 'mossie' coils are available in Thailand) and foam ear plugs
for noisy nights.
Toothpaste, soap and most other toiletries can be purchased
anywhere in Thailand. Sun block and mosquito repellent (except
high-percentage DEET) are available, although they can be expensive and
the quality of both is generally substandard. If you plan to wash your
own clothes, bring along a universal sink plug, a few plastic clothes
pegs and three metres of plastic coed or plastic hangers for hanging wet
clothes out to dry.
If you plan to spend a great deal of time in one or more of
Thailand's beach areas, you might want to bring your own snorkel and
mask. This would save you having to rent such gear and would also assure
a proper fit. Shoes designed for water sports, eg Aquasocks, are great
for wearing in the water wheater you're diving or not. They protect your
feet from coral cuts, which easily become infected.
WHEN TO GO
The best overall time for visiting most of Thailand vis-a-vis
climate falls between November and March - during these months it rains
least and is not so hot. Remember that temperatures are more even in the
south, so the south makes a good refuge when the rest of Thailand is
miserably hot (April to June). The north is best from mid-November to
early December or in February when it begins warming up again. If you're
spending time in Bangkok, be prepared to roast n April and do some
flood-water wading in October - probably the two worst months,
weather-wise, for visiting the capital.
The peak months for tourist visitation are August, November,
December, February, and March, with secondary peak months in January and
July. You should consider travelling during the least crowed months
(April, May, June, September and October) if your main objective is to
avoid vacationers and to take advantage of discounted rooms and other
low-season rates. On the other hand it's not difficult to leave the
crowds behind, even during peak months, if you simply avoid some of the
most popular destinations (eg Chiang Mai and all islands and beaches).
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